BEING THERE

Only in Prague could there be a kilometre-long pedestrian subway that is not simply for the foolhardy and their muggers - at least during the day, when it is safe. The tunnel runs under the hill between Zizkov and Karlín, and conveniently lets you out at pubs at either end. Start your journey there by taking bus 133 or 207 two stops from Florenc metro and descend. It's a little dark at points, but the adrenaline rush is well rewarded with a cheap (9Kc, or 35 cents) beer at shady beer hall U Tunelu when you finally surface.

Beer

Czech beer is world famous and the Czechs have honed beer-drinking down to a fine art, so a visit to one of Prague's smokey beer halls is a must. You'll never be hard pressed to find a pub in Prague (although you may have more difficulty finding one without any Americans), but if you don't have time for trial, error and dubious drinking partners to help you choose your favourite, try hanging out at U medvídku at Na Perstyne 7, Prague 1 or at U zlatého tygra, Husova 17, Prague 1. At the most popular places, you'll find supplies, efficiency (and possibly rudeness) second to none.

Music and Cabaret

With the Czech-language still - and always likely to be - an impenetrable mystery to most tourists, there is still plenty of evening entertainment available. The arts thrive in Prague all year round, not just during the annual Prague Spring Festival. Aside from classical music (and some of the best concerts are found in churches), the most popular entertainment is Black (mime) Theatre. Venues include Boris Hybner's GAG studio and Lanterna Magika. Check the listings magazines for what's on - cheapest tickets can be bought from the box-office at the venue itself.

Take in the view

Prague is a cornucopia of architecture, with a beautiful building hiding behind every corner. The city is also a maze of cobbled alleys and come-hither tunnels. One of the nicest things, therefore, is to let the city seduce and lead you at random. To see the city in its spired entirety - from a mostly undiscovered and tourist-free perch - go to Petrin hill - which for those daunted by its steep ascent is serviced by a funicular to the top- and meander down. The views are breathtaking.