THE BIG SLEEP

TOP HOTELS

Ritz

Plaza de la Lealtad,5. Tel (1) 5212857. Soigné, classical, an exquisite terrace restaurant with serviceable food. Better bet: the Sunday brunch (11am-1pm).

Villamagna

Paseo de la Castellana, 22. Tel (1) 5767500 Modern luxury on Madrid's main thoroughfare.

Palace

Plaza de las Cortes 7 Tel (1) 4297551. Belle Epoque grandeur. Good Grill Neptuno restaurant. Bar frequented by power-brokers, US Europe-doers and well-heeled.

Santo Mauro NH

Zurbano 36. Tel (1) 3196900 Former 19th century palace. Exquisite.

Eurobuilding

Padre Damián, 23. Tel (1) 3454500. Comfortable rooms, good service and a swimming pool in summer.

Monte Real

Arroyo del Fresno, 17, in Puerta de Hierro. Tel (1) 3162140. Luxury and, believe it or not, quiet; 15 mins outside Madrid.

Miguel Angel

Miguel Angel 31. Tel (1) 4428199. Classic haunt for visiting film crews. Modern and central.

Serrano, Marqués de Villamejor, 8. Tel (1) 4355200. Secluded, low-profile, select, with character.