SATURDAY NIGHT FEVER

Joy Eslava

Arenal 11. Madrid's most fashionable macro-disco. Spanish acid (bacalao) music.

El Café del Mercado

Mercado Puerta de Toledo. Live salsa bands; throbbing ambience.

Oba Oba

Jacometrazo, 4. Brazilian samba.

Stella

Arlabán, 7. Owned by Almodóvar friend, pop-singer and self-confessed white witch Alaska.

Siroco

San Dimas. Live bands in dirty dive.

Teatriz

Hermosilla/Claudio Coello. Exquisite, redecorated old theatre with entertaining wash-rooms.

Torero

Cruz 26. Bar upstairs, writhing, lithe bodies on dance floor below.