BEING THERE

First, a warning: For those addicted to good coffee, there are two sorts of coffee shop in Amsterdam. There's the traditional coffee shop, where people can get a variety of sandwiches and non-alcoholic drinks (such as Pie in the Sky or Teede Laurierdwarsstraat) or, alternatively, there are the smoking coffee shops where trading and smoking marijuana are the major pastimes.

Magna Plaza is one of Amsterdam's newest shopping mall sensations. Located in the former post office near the Dam and the Kalverstraat, it houses the Virgin Megastore, a USA Today American clothing store, and a selection of upmarket shops.

Windmills, clogs, Dutch cheese, Holland gin, tulips (both as cut flowers or bulbs), Delftware, windmills, as well as antique maps and prints, are just a few of the traditional souvenirs from Holland, a number of which have become major exports and are widely available including at Schiphol airport.

As an alternative, a wide range of exclusive goods can be purchased at shops such as Jos Jonkergouw, Heiligeweg 20 (for jewels and watches); Animation Art Gallery, Berenstraat 39 (for animated art and related merchandise); Cards for Days, Huidenstraat 26 (for cards and gifts); Tony Tolo, Klinkerstraat 161 (creative with corking clothing); Het Gulden Vlies, Warmoesstraat 141 (for an asssortment of condoms in various shapes, sizes, colours and flavours not all of them safe),however; Hajenius, Rokin 92-96 (for cigars); Puck en Hans on Rokin (for fashion); or the Leonidas stores for those famous Belgian chocolates.

Relaxation can be found in Deco at Amsterdam's most stylish mixed sauna and Turkish bath. Professional massage treatment is available at Herengracht 115 (Tel 623 8215). Serious Japanese massage can be had at Okura, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 Tel 678 7111. Any urge for aquajogging can be satisfied in Mirandabad. Mirandalaan 9 (Tel 642 8080), while the most relaxing floating sessions are to be found at Koan Float, Prinsengracht 662 Tel 625 4970). The Garden Jodenbreestraat 158, finally, is a well-equiped fitness centre. All these are serious businesses.

Among the lesser-known 'alternatives' are the Piggy Bank Museum, Raadhuisstraat 12; the Cannabis Museum, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 150, or even the Sex Museum, Damrak 18 rather fitting given the famous Dutch saying 'Good boys go to heaven, bad guys go to Amsterdam'.